IF you’ve been as caught up with “Mad Men,” the new AMC series about the 1960s advertising world, as I’ve been, then you’ll understand why I wanted to go to a steakhouse. Harkening to the day when diners rarely worried about the dangers of red meat or its fat content, steakhouses can be comforting transport to seemingly simpler times.
The new Croton Creek Steakhouse and Wine Bar in Croton Falls takes care of its central mission — offering tasty meat — well. The prime all-natural beef is smartly selected from a variety of Hunts Point suppliers, and there are often special 21-day aged cuts for a little extra tenderness. Technique is the next concern. It’s important to get the grill hot enough to sear the meat without overcooking it. Again, Croton Creek comes through. And if you’re interested in pairing your meat with a sauce, there’s a delicious range to choose from (we liked green peppercorn brandy, shallot red wine reduction and porcini butter). Or order “the assemblage,” and they’ll bring you all 10 on the side.
But the restaurant aspires to be a more contemporary take on the traditional steakhouse, and that’s where the results are mixed. Its side of creamed spinach was a wonderful updating of the old standby: creamy but not heavy, with a crackly crust of cheese on top. And Yucca fries, a tempura-style side dish, were a welcome alternative to French fries. Yet even in August — peak tomato season — the vine-ripened tomato salad was flavorless and tough, with too little Gorgonzola and too much vinaigrette. And a fricassee of wild mushrooms came out strangely tasteless, flaccid and cool in temperature.
Seafood offerings were more successful. A mussels appetizer had a terrific white wine broth kicked up by chorizo and a dash of chipotle peppers. A jumbo soft-shell crab was perfectly pan-crisped, tasty and fresh. And wild striped bass, seared on the outside and juicy and tender within, came with a savory coconut-lime reduction.
For those who want a new take on steak, the organic, free-range bison rib-eye is a good choice. Other creative entrees include a Kobe burger, stacked with frizzled onions, bacon and Swiss cheese, which was rich and satisfying — as was a special of pan-seared pork loin stuffed with roasted pears and Gorgonzola.
Croton Creek just opened in January and it is still evolving. The service can be excellent or truly awful, with servers who spill drinks and barely apologize or can’t be bothered to answer questions about the food. But the hosts are kind and helpful, and the space itself is warm and substantial, like an old-fashioned steakhouse.
During several visits, the music hit just the right note. It was either old timers like Louis Armstrong, Ella Fitzgerald or Chet Baker, or contemporaries with old souls, like Diana Krall. At least one of the owners knows something about music: Kimberley Locke, who was a second runner-up in the second season of “American Idol,” has joined in this venture with Eric Kupferberg (the chef as well as an owner), Liam Harvey and Jim Stake.
Along with jazz standards come throwbacks like a grenadine-heavy version of the Shirley Temple (called the Spiderman) and a refreshing Caesar salad with an unexpected ribbon of baked grana padano cheese on top.
And the desserts — at this point, who’s worrying about calories? — are consistently excellent. Our favorites were the apple bourbon crème brûlée, an orange-infused ricotta cheesecake and a cold strawberry soup with a scoop of vanilla ice cream floating in its sweet, red center.
Croton Creek
4 West Cross Street
Croton Falls
(914) 276-0437
www.crotoncreek.com
GOOD
THE SPACE Lovingly restored 100-year-old building. Wheelchair accessible.
THE CROWD Mostly adult, some families early in the evening.
THE BAR Separate, with adjacent garden. (Late-night lounge menu on Friday and Saturday.) Nice wine selection, $25 to $125.
THE BILL Lunch entrees, $8 to $13; dinner entrees, $16 to $66 (porterhouse for two). Most major credit cards accepted.
WHAT WE LIKE Pan-crisped soft shell crab (special), chorizo mussels, Caesar salad; beef or bison rib-eye, stuffed pork loin (special), pan-seared striped bass, Kobe burger; apple bourbon crème brûlée, ricotta cheesecake, strawberry soup.
IF YOU GO Lunch: Monday to Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Dinner: Monday to Thursday, 5:30 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5:30 to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 3 to 9 p.m. Reservations for parties of six or more only.Reviewed Sept. 9, 2007
