GRANITE SPRINGS
DINERS negotiating the S turns along the Amawalk Reservoir here may feel a little like pioneers entering a wilderness. But I.B.M. and PepsiCo have campuses nearby, and the Granite Springs Inn beckons like a grange hall on a Saturday night. For anyone seeking an honest meal and some fun on a night out, the inn, open since June, offers more than a few good reasons to come in from the cold.
Pumpkins and chrysanthemums line the steps, and although the temporary signs are like those advertising used car lots, the interior has a fresh high-gloss rusticity. Antique farm tools and floor-length draperies dress up the big, open dining room; the handsome eat-in bar sports wooden shutters and shades of moss and teal. On consecutive Saturday nights in October, the parking lot was jammed by 7:30.
The wide-ranging, crowd-pleasing menu, executed by Jordan Luchini, formerly the pastry chef at the Lexington Square Cafe in Mount Kisco, makes the usual nods to wasabi and chipotle, but there are some nice surprises, too.
From a lineup of Oktoberfest specials, I was taken with a fragrant, flaky onion tart. Crisp cornmeal-coated oysters were sprinkled with jet-black caviar that popped when pressed against the roof of the mouth. Fat scallops seared to a deep brown, with lobster beurre blanc and butternut squash risotto, were delicate yet robust, and roasted corn and pancetta agnolotti were perfectly suited to fall.
Two salads were winners: spinach and watercress tossed with candied walnuts in a Gorgonzola vinaigrette, and roasted beets and baby greens dressed with a lemon-thyme emulsion and nestled with a crispy-creamy goat cheese crouton. A Caesar salad, however, was unexceptional. An alliance of shiitakes, pickled daikon, bok choy, roasted red peppers, baby greens and white miso dressing seemed forced, and was a chore to eat.
Satisfying entrees included a French-cut free-range chicken breast mingled with pan juices with a lovely goat cheese polenta cake, and sirloin steak, served with garlicky mashed potatoes and roasted green beans. A well-made thin-crusted "seafarer" pizza was spread with crab meat and rock shrimp, thin slices of ripe tomato and a scattering of parsley and thyme; reheated the next day, it was still excellent.
Steamed pot stickers were ho-hum, but a "spicy" butternut squash soup was so fiery that all subtlety was lost. Sides of heavy corn bread and sour coleslaw detracted from fatty, flavorful St. Louis ribs. Two dishes that never should have been served were a dull-tasting pad Thai and an overcooked, undersalted mushroom risotto.
The evolving wine list is short but not without imagination or opportunity. The 2002 Hendry Blocks 19 and 20 chardonnay ($49) was a clean-styled beauty. A complement of artisanal beers reflects the spirit of the menu.
For dessert, the Key lime pie wasn't puckery enough for my taste, the flan was a little tough and chocolate espresso cake was passed around but found no fans. Clove-scented pumpkin pie and warm sticky apple cake, however, each struck sweet autumnal notes. An ancillary bakery and market are set to open in time for the holidays.
The Granite Springs Inn
2 Old Tomahawk Street
Granite Springs
(914) 248-8100
GOOD
Atmosphere A sophisticated but unpretentious roadhouse serving reliable and sometimes memorable American fare. Newly renovated interiors are spacious and handsome. The friendly management and youthful waiters want to please.
Recommended dishes Crispy fried oysters, onion tart (special), roasted beet salad with panko-crusted goat cheese, spinach and watercress salad with candied walnuts and Gorgonzola vinaigrette, "seafarer" pizza, roasted corn and pancetta agnolotti, French-cut chicken breast with goat cheese polenta cake, sirloin steak with mushroom demi-glace, pan-seared scallops with lobster beurre blanc (special), sticky apple cake, pumpkin pie (special).
Prices Appetizers, salads and sandwiches, $6 to $12.95. Pizzas, $8.95 to $13.95. Pastas and risottos, $17.95 to $18.95. Entrees, $15.95 to $28.50. Desserts, $6.50 to $7.
Hours Dinner only, Sunday and Monday, 5 to 9 p.m., Tuesday to Thursday, 5 to 9:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday, 5 to 10:30 p.m.
Reservations Taken for parties of five or more.
Credit cards All major.
Wheelchair access Ramp.
The Ratings Excellent. Very Good. Good. Satisfactory. Poor. Ratings reflect the reviewer's reaction primarily to food, with ambience and service taken into consideration. Menu listings and prices are subject to change.
Review published: Oct. 30, 2005
