I CAN'T resist lobster bisque, and have sampled many pale imitations. On a recent frosty night, I took my chances at the Iron Horse Grill, where the luxurious, autumnal bisque was so full of extracted flavor that it might have passed muster on the coast of Normandy. At its best, the food of Philip McGrath, who this month observes his sixth anniversary as chef and owner here, shows such exuberance and finesse that it can be tough getting a table on a Saturday night.
The busy, seasonal menu -- American at heart but global in reach -- left me wondering if Mr. McGrath had ever met an ingredient he didn't like. He covers a lot of turf (venison, lamb, veal, beef, pheasant) as well as surf (wild king salmon, halibut, lemon sole, cod, swordfish) -- and that's just the entrees. Each dish is a neat tableau, with little or no redundancy.
It is a lot to get right, and the kitchen isn't perfect, but most of what I tried showed fine craftsmanship, and a handful of dishes were nothing short of splendid.
Housed in a former train station, the restaurant has high coffered ceilings and brick walls softened by brocade, draperies and white cloths. Toy trains add charm, and in late October a prominent silk flower arrangement had been replaced by a still life with pumpkin and scarecrow. Jolly and solicitous, Mr. McGrath circulates in his chef's whites, tending to his customers.
Two worthy starters remain from the original menu: seared scallops with creamed leeks and woodsy mushrooms, and a neat timbale of peeky-toe crab, roasted corn and avocado. Crackly shrimp were served with a subtle curry sauce and cooling cucumber raita. Moist smoked trout was very salty, but whipped cream tinged with horseradish added balance.
A few appetizers were both dazzling and disappointing. I loved beet and celery root salads served with dabs of mayonnaise and chopped pistachios, but the accompanying chèvre strudel was laden with fat. Foie gras, beautifully charred, was set on a clunky mix of chestnuts and apples. A nutty artichoke spiked with rosemary vinaigrette was cooked beyond the point of firmness.
Among entrees, the prizes were lemon sole and red snapper. The cornmeal-coated sole was sautéed to a crisp finish, its delicate sauce strewn with shiitake mushrooms and chives. Red snapper was crisped in the same fashion, then dressed up with shaved fennel and a blood orange emulsion. Lamb shank and breast of pheasant sauced with Sancerre were also delicious.
Tender slices of venison were paired with too-tart cranberries and too-sweet yams. Sliced duck breast with a spicy black bean chili was undercut by the jarring addition of broccoli rabe. Purple potatoes and caramelized onions served with a filet mignon tasted tired.
The attentive, well-meaning service sometimes risks overinvolvement. (Can a waiter be too friendly? The answer is yes.) One waitress was a model of stealth; another hovered to the point of meddling. Tables can be tight: two of my guests had to twist 180 degrees to see the waiter as he recited specials behind them; his attempt at crumbing was worthy of the Comedy Channel.
Maple crème brûlée, chocolate marquis and a passion fruit-raspberry tart were real beauties. Smooth textured ice creams (cinnamon, honey, ginger and butterscotch) played supporting roles but could have stood alone. Other desserts were undistinguished; I've had better cookies, pumpkin pies and apple cobblers from home kitchens. Dobos torte showed sublime architecture, but served too cold, it was all but gone before it began to release its flavors.
Iron Horse Grill
20 Wheeler Avenue
Pleasantville
(914)741-0717
VERY GOOD
ATMOSPHERE -- The spacious, semiformal dining room is a little staid, with some tables too close together. There is a great little bar with a demilune table for dining; the old ticket office of the former train station is used for large parties.
RECOMMENDED DISHES -- Peeky-toe crab timbale, diver scallops, lobster bisque (special), beet and celery root salads, chopped autumn salad, khaifi shrimp, lemon sole, red snapper (special), breast of pheasant, lamb shank (special), chocolate marquis, maple crème brûlée, passion fruit-raspberry tart.
WINE LIST -- The delightful, well-priced wine list favors France and California, with a strong selection of half bottles.
PRICES -- À la carte: first courses, $8 to $16; main courses, $25 to $29; desserts, $7.50. Three-course prix fixe menu, $45. Five-course tasting menu, $65. Pretheater menu, $32.
HOURS -- Dinner, Tuesdays through Thursdays from 5:30 p.m.
CREDIT CARDS -- All major.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS -- Street level.
THE RATINGS -- Excellent. Very good. Good. Satisfactory. Poor. Ratings reflect the reviewer's reaction primarily to food, with ambience and service taken into consideration. Menu listings and prices are subject to change.
Review published: Oct. 31, 2004
