TO many locals, the terminal at Westchester County Airport is the last place they would think of when choosing a place for dining out, and that's a pity. The Skytop restaurant at the terminal offers unusual entertainment in its views of airfield bustle, the sunset, and after dark, the sparkle of lights on runway strips. People from 9 to 92 will enjoy the show. While the food is not always carefully prepared, it's often surprisingly accomplished. Much probably depends upon the cook of the day.
For tranvelers, there is all that and more. These days, flight delays, early check-ins and meticulous security searches can add hours to travel time, spent largely in the terminal's cramped waiting area -- without newsstand, food or drink. And as airlines cut back on amenities, chances are small that any sustaining food will be served on board. Passengers who check in and then find they have a few hours to kill can return to the terminal proper, where, on the second floor, Skytop (restaurant, bar and cafeteria) offers food, drink and comfortable chairs. The only down side is having to go through another security check.
The restaurant's specials menu lists the fresh fish dishes of the day. Terse and old-fashioned, the table menu, however, has remained largely unchanged over the last 12 years; although few items sounded tempting, many proved surprisingly tasty.
Be aware that portions are far from dainty, beginning with the overloaded basket of fresh breads. Some appetizers were generous enough for an entree or for two to share. A platter of smoked salmon came beautifully arranged, with fat fingers of salmon on rye bread, thick cuts of cream cheese, mounds of capers and chopped onion and slices of boiled egg -- a classic. A dewy fillet of mild smoked trout (a special) with horseradish sauce was flawed only by its garnish of anemic chopped tomato.
Two crab cakes managed to be delightfully light yet full of flavor; and a bowl of fresh Maine steamers (a special) were all ready to be dunked into cups of broth and butter. Sides of sour cream and salsa, which needed more spark, accompanied pliant cheese-filled quesadillas. A colorful tossed salad had plenty of fresh greens. But mozzarella, roasted peppers and sun-dried tomatoes arrived in an unappealing heap.
The unevenness of the kitchen was nowhere more apparent than on one of three visits when both salmon and tuna teriyaki were left too long on the stove. The tuna came overly sweet, tough and gray throughout. Yet, on another visit an enormous slab of swordfish teriyaki was cooked perfectly, with just enough teriyaki glaze to enhance the fish's firm meat.
After sampling overcooked grilled shrimp with roasted peppers on a previous visit, we had doubts about ordering lobster and shrimp scampi (a special) but were glad we did. For $22, the whole tail and claws of a sizable, juicy lobster came with a handful of properly timed shrimp, all in a buttery sauce. Thin cream sauce united a lovely dish of black-peppered fettuccine tossed with loads of good salmon.
Entrees had a few other mishaps. Sea scallops on a bed of fettuccine needed a stronger dose of pesto; and coarse-textured New York strip steak was tasty but chewy. Cuts of luscious fresh fruits garnished chicken cutlets that were awful: pounded into wafers, grilled until they were stiff as shirt board and covered with dried herbs.
For dessert, nothing could be better then an assortment of those fabulous, juice-dripping fruits. Ask. Otherwise bread pudding mingled with blueberries or chocolate mousse will do. Soggy fruit cobbler, even with good ice cream, and overly ripe banana pudding failed to make the cut.
For a reasonably priced wine, stick to the house brands; several of the midrange bottles were unavailable from a not particularly outstanding list. Beer -- quite a few are on tap -- might be the better choice.
The menu and the kitchen need some reorganizing, but even now Skytop fills a niche, satisfying both local and transient clientele.
Skytop
Westchester County Airport
Terminal, (Exit 2 from I-684),
Harrison. (914) 428-0251.
GOOD
ATMOSPHERE A view of busy airfield traffic from the glass-enclosed dining room on the second floor of the terminal. A partial view from the separate bar; no view from the adjoining coffee shop. Good service. Free parking validation for patrons.
SMOKING In the bar.
RECOMMENDED DISHES Smoked trout, smoked salmon, Maine steamers, crab cakes, swordfish teriyaki, lobster and shrimp scampi (a special), black peppered fettuccine with salmon, bread pudding.
PRICES Lunch, main dishes, $8 to $13, less for burger platters. Dinner, main dishes, $17 to $23. A minimum check of $15 is expected in the dining room.
CREDIT CARDS Major cards accepted.
HOURS Every day, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
RESERVATIONS Accepted.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS Elevator and escalator.
THE RATINGS Excellent, Very Good, Good, Satisfactory, Poor.
Ratings reflect the reviewer's reaction primarily to food, with ambience and service taken into consideration. Menu listings and prices are subject to change.
