FOR many people, one of the pleasures of dining out is discovering that a restaurant of seemingly limited scope and ability, upon investigation delivers an exciting wallop. While my own recent unearthing of Golden Rod was only slightly less dramatic, the neighborhood clientele that often fills the place to bursting has known about the place since it opened three years ago. At that time it must have been the first in Westchester to offer Chinese cuisine and sushi as well as pleasing dishes rooted in Thailand, Malay and Indonesia.
Generous portions and substantial flavors were almost the rule. Only when it comes to ordering appetizers might diners ask about the number of pieces in an order, that is, if everyone in the party expects a taste. A bamboo steamer held five succulent shrimp dumplings, the shrimp's pinkness visible through almost transparent wrappers. In an engaging contrast of textures, the crisped wrapping of a Thai spring roll (two to an order) shattered at a touch, revealing soft shredded vegetables packed within. A mildly spicy dipping sauce added another dimension. Scallion pancake was only a little too oily. Soup lovers might ignore miso and egg drop for satisfying lobster and asparagus soup.
A few appetizer listings lacked descriptions of what turned out to be tasty assemblages indeed. Four pastry triangles filled with juicy shredded duck and wild mushrooms were listed as Crispy Duck Cake. And under salads, Spicy Sashimi Salad arrived on strips of vinegared cucumber topped with a cylinder of pressed, assorted sashimi moistened with spicy Japanese mayonnaise.
The menu is not a quick study. Apart from the Japanese selections, noodle and rice dishes are listed separately from those of Southeast Asia, Mainland (''Red'') China and Chef Selection, which might come from all of the above. But never mind. Except for sushi -- some of our pieces were gristly and haphazardly trimmed -- entrees were gorgeously flavorful, hands-down delights. Rice came with most dishes. Although they play an important part in some preparations, green or red chilies were applied with a light touch; and in every case, the degree of heat was negotiable.
Slender cuts of chicken and bean curd came in a crock of bubbling Malaysian red coconut curry sauce. Heaped in a noodle basket, shrimp, scallop, chicken and shiitake mushrooms (which this kitchen uses with delicious abandon) combined into a dish called Indonesian Sambal Delight. Another ''Delight,'' this time from Thailand, brought a savory green chili sauce, heady with the scent of kaffir lime and Thai basil, bobbing with pineapple, shrimp, lobster tail and scallop. Lemon grass and steamed watercress embellished six jumbo shrimp.
Ginger Scallion Duck was creative and totally winning with its sprinkling of balsamic vinegar, cuts of young asparagus and sautéed red onions.
Noodle dishes were fine. Classic, popular pad Thai, with fried rice-flour noodles, ground peanuts, shrimp, citrus and more, had the expected elements of soft and crunchy, sweet and sour. Broad chow fun noodles with pork and vegetables was everything the dish should be, but in this company, it was a dwarf among giants.
Although broccoli and string beans were dandy, diners interested in vegetables other than those on the menu should know that the kitchen sometimes gets in a small, seasonal stock. We lucked out with tender baby bok choy in a silky white sauce and with sautéed watercress.
A couple of desserts -- usually written on a white board at the entrance -- will suit children and adults alike. Chocolate pyramid made an unlikely offering in an Asian restaurant, but it would be a shame to pass on this creamy, espresso-showered bit of fluff encasing a knob of vanilla ice cream. Good green tea and vanilla ice creams were on hand as well.
Golden Rod
55 East Main Street (Route 1), New Rochelle.
(914)235-6688.
VERY GOOD
Atmosphere -- Under a trellised ceiling, red tassels and Asian symbols brighten an unprepossessing dining room that becomes noisy at peak moments. Efficient, helpful service. Parking in back.
Recommended dishes -- Steamed shrimp dumplings, Thai spring roll, Spicy Sashimi Salad, pad Thai, Thai Green Curry Seafood Delight, Ginger Scallion Duck, Indonesian Sambal Delight, Malaysian red curry with bean curd and chicken, lemon grass shrimp, chocolate pyramid.
Prices -- Special lunch (soup included), $6 to $9. Main dishes from the regular menu, $8 to $21; sushi ''boats,'' $38 and $50.
Credit cards -- Visa.
Hours -- Lunch special, Mondays through Fridays, 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Regular menu served Mondays through Fridays, 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.; Saturdays and Sundays, noon to 11 p.m.
Reservations -- Accepted.
Wheelchair access -- Street level.
The Ratings -- Excellent. Very good. Good. Satisfactory. Poor. Ratings reflect the reviewer's reaction primarily to food, with ambience and service taken into consideration. Menu listings and prices are subject to change.
Review published: April 25, 2004
