WHETHER its wide front doors are opened to a warm breeze or closed to an autumn chill, the Red Hat, a new bistro here, is very much a part of this village's Main Street. Curious dog walkers and shoppers peer through the storefront glass to read the posted menu and to see how this familiar neighborhood space has changed.
The design is fresh, cosmopolitan and friendly. After many years operating as a bar that happened to have food, the place is now a restaurant that happens to have a bar, which, incidentally is packed on weekends with a jolly din from a neighborhood clientele. Tables, while small, are pretty with their twinkling votive and a single bloom of startling, impossible red that picks up the color of the eponymous red hat pictured on the wall.
The menu is adventurous, and while the kitchen's preparations and timing especially needed work, many dishes, like the place itself, were full of brio. Fresh breads -- olive, sourdough, herb -- were excellent and ready to be slathered with soft butter.
An unusual dish, spicy tuna tartare, brought the tuna tumbled with diced white radish and tangy ginger, providing good heat. Tomato, avocado, sprouts and a base of cucumber tamed and cooled the intriguing mix. A slab of dense country-style pâté is de rigueur bistro food, especially with slices of toasted baguette and jolts of the red onion and grainy mustard provided. Whole grilled calamari and smoky bacon made an appealing match; the calamari, however, needed further tenderizing.
Salads sounded ordinary but they glowed with color and dewy freshness. A mound of baby spinach, crumbly blue cheese and sweet walnuts came dressed in fruity pear vinaigrette. And even house salad contained organic greens and chopped herbs. But bitter vanilla-thyme oil might be rethought as a flavoring for goat cheese and fine baby beets.
Other starters were less polished: watery steamed artichoke, oysters buried within thick cornmeal crusts, and crispy pea risotto cakes, which, of two tries, once arrived burned black and on both samplings seemed to be missing peas.
Major discrepancies surfaced among the entrees. A slice of prosciutto enveloped a thick piece of cod, preserving its moistness and texture; olive compote enhanced the sweetness of the cod's glossy flesh. Broiled fillet of sole could have used some protection, as careless timing resulted in an arid fillet. Denser salmon came off the stove just in time, its lentil accompaniment a big plus. Successful on all counts, steak frites brought a tender, flavorful piece of sirloin with masses of hot, fresh-tasting fries; yet steak Diane (purportedly filet mignon) arrived tough and dry. Scented with garlic and thyme and roasted to perfect juiciness, organic chicken half came with a mélange of vegetables including skinny yellow beans and diced roasted potato. On the other hand, chicken paillard was cooked to stiff leather, a fistful of frisee dumped on top. Lovely citrus sauce could not rehydrate overcooked grilled duck breast and confit leg. A pity.
Skip the doughy lead sinkers called pear fritters for the Red Hat's tarte Tatin, not the caramelized classic, but a composition of chunks of apple on a homemade crust, scrumptious with a scoop of gelato. Or have blood orange sorbet with vanilla gelato -- a transcendent Creamsicle in a dish. Fragrant with nutmeg, bread pudding made a fitting bistro dessert; and a disintegrating graham cracker crust couldn't ruin chocolate ''something'' of smooth dark chocolate truffle studded with walnuts.
A wine list of recent vintages is appropriate for bistro dining and is reasonably priced, with many bottles under $45. Note the number of interesting beers, including a couple of Belgian brews, on hand as well.
The Red Hat
63 Main Street, Irvington. (914)591-5888.
GOOD
Atmosphere -- The old original tin ceiling, brick wall and antique bar remain in a smart remodeling of an informal restaurant with a small bar. High noise level. Close seating. Warm welcome; attentive service.
Recommended dishes -- Spicy tuna tartare, Red Hat salad, goat cheese and baby beets, organic greens salad, country-style pâté, prosciutto-wrapped cod fish, steak frites, roasted chicken half, tarte Tatin, gelato, chocolate ''something.''
Prices -- Lunch and brunch, main dishes, $8 to $14. Dinner, main dishes, $16 to $26. Light ''brasserie menu,'' $12 to $15.
Credit cards -- Major cards accepted.
Hours -- Lunch, Tuesdays through Fridays, noon to 3 p.m. Dinner, Tuesdays through Saturdays, 5 to 10 p.m.; Sundays, 5 to 8:30 p.m. Brunch, Sundays, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Reservations -- Necessary on weekends.
Wheelchair access -- Steps at entrance.
The Ratings -- Excellent. Very good. Good. Satisfactory. Poor. Ratings reflect the reviewer's reaction primarily to food, with ambience and service taken into consideration. Menu listings and prices are subject to change.
Reviewed by The Times: Sept. 28, 2003
