HARRYS may be ''of Hartsdale,'' but its spirit is pure Manhattan. This restaurant provides all the polish and sophistication of Midtown Manhattan bistros, but closer to home. It has even copied a New York City trend of offering special multicourse meals at $20.04. Instead of dining in the city and catching the late train, commuters can stop in at Harrys, situated conveniently opposite the train station here.
Open for almost four years, the place has managed to stay fresh, with its handsome décor, interior design that incorporates a bar, a raw bar and casual dining on the first floor and hushed, more formal dining on the second floor. It bills itself as a steakhouse and oyster bar, this last stocking a half-dozen oyster varieties in season, which, unfortunately, won't swing into full gear until around October. Available right now, however, are platters of cool shrimp, lobster and big, briny and luscious cherrystone clams. And, of course, those steaks.
Steakhouse fare does not hold a prominent place on the menu, but the T-bone lived up to the genre. The meat proved juicy, remarkably tender and full of beef flavor. Two could easily share an order ($32), or one might take home a mighty chunk for sandwiches for the rest of the week. Steakhouse sides like whipped potatoes and sautéed onions finished the deal. Creamed spinach was too salty.
For starters, tuna and salmon tartare came as quite an assemblage, delicious for diners who like raw fish: a latticed slice of potato separated the bottom layer of salmon from the top layer of tuna. Or begin more simply with a first-rate chopped salad served neatly in a tuile or with a dozen clams on the half shell.
Crunchy jicama slaw contrasted beautifully with two soft crab-corn cakes, under seasoned but given necessary zip with spicy tartar sauce. Other appetizers fell short. Light, very crisp calamari tempura deserved better than a thickened soy dipping sauce; and luxurious-sounding shrimp and filet mignon quesadilla amounted to a limp mess stirred with avocado and ''crème fraîche.''
Of the handful of pasta entrees on the menu, pappardelle satisfied to a point: al dente ribbons of pasta with wild mushrooms scenting the delectable, creamy brandy-laced Stilton sauce also mingled with nuggets of tough, overdone steak.
A big Angus burger lived up to the quality of steaks Harrys serves. A selection of toppings and a side of fresh, piping hot pomme frites completed this popular item. Less memorable, rack of lamb ordered medium-rare arrived well done, enough to knock the stuffing out of the best of meats.
Breast of Frenched chicken -- that is, with the clipped wing joint still attached to the boned breast -- was thick and succulent, and wild mushroom risotto matched it perfectly.
Fish dishes accounted for about half the entrees. Sesame crusted ahi tuna is not new to restaurant menus, but Harrys' version rated among the best: the rounds of tuna went well with tempura broccoli and thin noodles in peanut sauce, a nice balance of textures and tastes. Treatments of special swordfish chop and swordfish napoleon (layered with sautéed fennel) could have been more inspired. A wheel of salmon was cooked dry, and salt overwhelmed the flavor of striped bass.
A few selections came with exotic black or red rice, but few kitchens know how to cook this food fad of the moment. Here, as elsewhere, the Himalayan red rice (similar to brown rice) required longer cooking; the black rice was unpleasantly sticky and cloying.
Most desserts were light and moderately sweet. Skip carrot cake, which tasted of old refrigerator, and bland chocolate cake, and try creamy, complex creamsicle cake; fluffy pear and almond tart; or an assortment of sorbets.
Harrys of Hartsdale
230 East Hartsdale Avenue, Hartsdale. (914)472-8777.
GOOD
Atmosphere -- Sociable bar, lounge and raw bar on the ground floor. Formal dining room on the second floor. Attentive to haphazard service. Municipal parking in back of the restaurant.
Recommended dishes -- Chopped salad, tuna and salmon tartare, Angus burger, T-bone steak, sesame-crusted tuna, creamsicle cake, sorbets, pear tart.
Prices -- Lunch, main dishes, $12 to $18. Dinner, main dishes, $12 to $32. Dinner, prix fixe, $20.04 (offered Sundays through Thursdays, 3 to 6:30 p.m.; Fridays and Saturdays, 3 to 5:30 p.m.) Brunch, prix fixe, $20.04.
Credit cards -- Major cards accepted.
Hours -- Lunch, Mondays through Saturdays, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Dinner, Mondays through Thursdays, 3 to 10 p.m.; Fridays, 3 to 10:30 p.m.; Saturdays, 3 to 11:30 p.m.; Sundays, 3 to 9:30 p.m. Brunch, Saturdays and Sundays, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Reservations -- Advisable on weekends.
Wheelchair access -- Street level.
The Ratings -- Excellent. Very good. Good. Satisfactory. Poor. Ratings reflect the reviewer's reaction primarily to food, with ambience and service taken into consideration. Menu listings and prices are subject to change.
Review published: Sept. 12, 2004
