SUSHI MIKE'S sits on Main Street, U.S.A. (or at least Dobbs Ferry's version of it); it features jazz and blues recordings to dine by; it offers a specialty roll called American Hero; and it hangs a framed print of Madama Butterfly -- all of which calls into question the spirit of the place: Eastern or Western?
This restaurant may sound like a hybrid, but one look at the menu, with its full range of sushi and sashimi, its one-pot dishes and interesting broiled items will put to rest any doubts about culinary allegiance.
The delightfully long list of starters includes a number of items rarely found elsewhere. Especially delectable was grilled cheek of yellowtail, which arrived still cradled in half the fish's jaw. Negitoro, another terrific starter, was a roll of finely chopped yellowtail and mild Japanese leek. That chopped yellowtail appeared again as tataki with touches of scallion, caviar and spicy wasabi sauce.
This kitchen has a wonderful knack for balancing texture and seasoning. Grilled salmon skin, glazed with sweet soy sauce, came in a salad with crunchy vinegared cucumber and a fine julienne of seaweed. Octopus in sweet vinegar sauce had been cooked to just the right texture, between tender and satisfyingly chewy.
A juicy nugget of shrimp (shumai) was held together by a wrapping of dough so thin it was almost translucent. Standard pork dumplings (gyoza) passed muster. The only disappointment was yakitori; the skewered nuggets of chicken were tough and dry.
Simple rolls, generous chirashi (raw fish on a bed of lovely seasoned rice) and excellent sushi were all on hand, but the creative, irresistible specialty rolls made up the core of this restaurant's offerings. It would be hard to go wrong choosing at random.
At $12 the most expensive single roll on the menu, Fantastic Roll arrived oversized and wrapped in white seaweed. Inside the roll, salmon, tuna, yellowtail, flying fish roe, avocado and other vegetables were employed in such careful proportion that no one ingredient overwhelmed another.
Shrimp and avocado, with smoked eel adorning the top, were the main ingredients in Sushi Mike's Special Roll. Red flying fish roe speckled the impossibly thin avocado ''scales'' covering sinuous Green Dragon Roll, packed with eel and cucumber.
Dishes labeled ''spicy'' had unmistakable incendiary notes.
Cooked entrees in general seemed less interesting. Diners who enjoy the tang of jalapeño will find the peppers strewn atop broiled chicken in spicy teriyaki sauce. Most teriyaki dishes were also available without peppery heat. Both salmon and jumbo shrimp versions were decent without being outstanding.
Tasty and not at all oily, pan-fried noodles (yaki soba) with seafood was a goodlight choice, as was soft-shell crab tempura with spicy sauce.
For a different dessert, try mochi, a sweet rice paste that enclosed a center of ice cream.
Toasty green tea was particularly flavorful, and ended a meal nicely.
A couple of wines by the glass were available for those forgoing Japanese beer, the best drink with this food.
It's rare to find a Japanese restaurant that offers fare much beyond the expected sushi and teri combinations. Sushi Mike's, where everyone goes -- from young families to young couples to grandparents -- boasts a long and interesting menu that makes up for its small size.
Sushi Mike's
146 Main Street (at Cedar Street),
Dobbs Ferry. (914) 591-0054.
VERY GOOD
ATMOSPHERE Tight, bright, charming corner restaurant with a tiny sushi bar. Service is gracious but can be slow at peak times. Parking on the street or in the lot off Cedar Street, in the back of the restaurant.
RECOMMENDED DISHES Shrimp shumai, grilled yellowtail cheek (hamachi kama), beef negimaki, negitoro, broiled octopus, salmon skin salad, Fantastic Roll, Sushi Mike's Roll, Green Dragon Roll, tuna roll, shrimp and salmon teriyaki, mochi.
PRICES Lunch, main dishes, $8 to $13 (soup or salad included). Dinner, main dishes, $11 to $25 (soup and salad usually included).
CREDIT CARDS Major cards accepted.
HOURS Lunch, Mondays and Wednesdays through Fridays, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Dinner, Mondays, Wednesdays and Thursdays, 4:30 to 10 p.m.; Fridays and Saturdays, 4:30 to 11 p.m.; Sundays, 3 to 10 p.m.
RESERVATIONS Accepted.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS Two narrow steps at entrance.
THE RATINGS Excellent, Very good, Good, Satisfactory, Poor.
Ratings reflect the reviewer's reaction primarily to food, with ambience and service taken into consideration. Menu listings and prices are subject to change.
